08 June 2009

hey, little sister

i think about you more than you know. 

this morning, i remembered peru. 

i remembered when you got sun burnt while on the beach in lima--while i was away at work. and how at the start of our hike i wanted you to put on sunscreen, but your shoulders were so badly burnt you began to cry. a nearby nursing mother heard you, not understanding your words yet knowing your pain, and offered  you her breast milk. our guide said fresh milk was known to relieve the pain of sunburn. i wish i could have understood and cared for you as she did. 

i also remembered when, after four days of hiking, we finally arrived at our destination. at the sun gate, you declared that you wish you never had to come on that trip with me. i angrily retorted that it was your gift. suddenly saddened, you said you thought mom paid for it all. "just the airfare," i said to win and made your eyes rest on the ground. the conversation ended as a couple in their fifties entered the ruin. the woman looked at you and asked, "if you don't mind me asking, how old are you?" eleven. "an eleven-year-old on the inka trail? wow, i want to shake your hand." i wish i could have been as supportive and praised you like she did. 

this morning, i woke up feeling awful. 

i remembered when you were just a toddler and mom turned to me and said, "you know, grandma commented on how mean you are to your sister." with concern in her voice, "grandma." i understood the underlying meaning: grandma abused my mom and her siblings; for her to note my treatment to you seemingly made it all the more severe. not that i ever did any of the things grandma did. i never hit you or made you cry. i was just your tormenter, giving you a hard time all the time. but you were just a little girl. i wish i could have been so much gentler and kind. 

not being able to sleep this morning and saddened by my wandering thoughts, i forced myself to remember that i was also your official birthday organizer until i moved out of the house. for your first birthday, i made two cakes: one regular and one for you with "frosting" from formula and your little baby cakes stacked high so that you could join in the fun. in the coming years i would design activities for your slew of little friends who would come over to celebrate: pinatas and boat racing, prizes and paddling you around the lake. 

i also made your first halloween costume by hand. you were a princess. 

i remembered dying of laughter with you on the stairs of our cusco hotel--half from lack of oxygen, half from the joy of hearing keri yelp when she discovered the cockroach in a take out box we left on her doorstep. we woke up half of the hotel with our uncontrollable giggles as we crawled back to our room.

i remembered running half-clothed out of the eucalyptus "sauna" with you somewhere in the clouds, trying to hit the tent without being spotted. of course the zipper failed us and the laughter began. 

i remembered when i excused myself to go to the bathroom and you took of running towards it (the only one for miles) and i football-styled tackled you to the ground. we made the porters laugh and couldn't stop ourselves. that was some serious gong show. 

i admit i've been less than i should have as a big sister. i've let you down. i haven't been as kind or caring as i should have. i teased you more than needed and knew all of your buttons just so that i could push them. i haven't told you all of the positive things i think of you. and i can't figure out why. 

some say that's just how siblings are. but i can't help but analyze myself more deeply. looking back i feel like i was so immature and hurtful. and angry.... 

but never at you. not really every at you even though it may have seemed that way. i was always secretly impressed by you. 

you, who never shied from anyone. even when you were little, you would invariably wander away from the slide or swing and start up a conversation with someone's mom nearby. you weren't afraid to talk with anyone and were always a social butterfly. you made friends with all the kids on the block and always had your days filled, not with crafts and legos alone like i did, but with spending time just hanging out and playing. you still visit some of these friends, even though you moved away years ago. 

you, who has always been the caring one. the girl to go to with secrets, seeking advice, and jokes. at least that's the way it's always seemed as i watched you and your friends. oh--and fashion tips and drama, too. you're the girl with the big heart, that you wear upon your sleeve.

you, who could always blow through any math worksheet from school like it was nothing. instead of reading, which you openly detested, you were always above in math even if school never pushed you the way it should have. you never gave yourself enough credit for what you do in class. 

it's interesting to watch you grow and realize how nostalgic i am for when you were little and hopeful i am for your future. i ponder (often painfully) when i hurt and when i helped as you grew and envision how i can improve. as i feel depressed by my disappointing moments, i work on brainstorming ways that i can become your go-to, your confidant, your friend, while understanding how very different we are. maybe that camping bike trip on my mind isn't really your style, now that i think about it again.... 

although i may not articulate it as often as i should or would like, i really do think about you more than you know and love you dearly. 

05 June 2009

forgive me, mother, for i have sinned

56 flights in 2 years.
(june 2007 through present)
56 flights in 24 months is an average of
2.3 flights per month.

34 flights in 6 months.
(december 2007 though may 2008)
34 flights in 6 months is an average of
5.6 flights per month.
34 flights in 163 days averages to
1 flight every 4 days 19 hours and 6 minutes
for nearly 6 months straight.

no comparison to some who travel for business
(as i did some of that, too)
but it still makes me sick to
think of the impact.

  1. Seattle, Washington – Houston, Texas (09/16/07)
  2. Houston, Texas – Quito, Ecuador (09/16/07)
  3. Quito, Ecuador – Guayaquil, Ecuador (09/18/07)
  4. Guayaquil, Ecuador – Quito, Ecuador (09/23/07)
  5. Quito, Ecuador – Houston, Texas (09/24/07)
  6. Houston, Texas – Seattle, Washington (09/24/07)
  7. Seattle, Washington – Houston. Texas (12/08/07)
  8. Houston, Texas – Guayaquil, Ecuador (12/08/07)
  9. Guayaquil, Ecuador – Houston, Texas (12/15/07)
  10. Houston, Texas – Seattle, Washington (12/15/07)
  11. Seattle, Washington – Houston. Texas (01/27/08)
  12. Houston, Texas – Quito, Ecuador (01/27/08)
  13. Guayaquil, Ecuador – Quito, Ecuador (02
  14. Quito, Ecuador – Guayaquil, Ecuador (02/17/08)
  15. Guayaquil, Ecuador –San Cristóbal, Galápagos (02/17/08)
  16. Isabela, Galápagos –Baltra, Galápagos (02/23/08)
  17. Baltra, Galápagos – Guayaquil, Ecuador (02/23/08)
  18. Guayaquil, Ecuador – Santiago, Chile (02/23/08)
  19. Santiago, Chile – Puerto Montt, Chile (02/24/08)
  20. Puerto Montt, Chile – Chaiten, Chile (02/25/08)
  21. Chaiten, Chile – Puerto Montt, Chile (03/01/08)
  22. Puerto Montt, Chile – Punta Arenas, Chile (03/01/08)
  23. El Calafate, Argentina – Ushuaia, Argentina (03/13/08)
  24. Ushuaia, Argentina – Rio Gallegos, Argentina (03/17/08)
  25. Rio Gallegos, Argentina - Buenos Aires, Argentina (03/17/08)
  26. Buenos Aires, Argentina – Lima, Peru (03/20/08)
  27. Lima, Peru – Quito, Ecuador (03/20/08)
  28. Guayaquil, Ecuador – Quito, Ecuador (04/08/08)
  29. Quito, Ecuador – Guayaquil, Ecuador (04/10/08)
  30. Guayaquil, Ecuador – Lima, Peru (04/10/08)
  31. Lima, Peru – Juliaca, Peru (04/11/08)
  32. Cusco, Peru – Lima, Peru (04/13/08)
  33. Lima, Peru – Guayaquil, Ecuador (04/13/08)
  34. Guayaquil, Ecuador – Quito, Ecuador (04/18/08)
  35. Quito, Ecuador – Houston, Texas (04/22/08)
  36. Houston, Texas – Seattle, Washington (04/22/08)
  37. Seattle, Washington – Houston, Texas (05/02/08)
  38. Houston, Texas – Managua, Nicaragua (05/03/08)
  39. Managua, Nicaragua – Houston, Texas (05/18/08)
  40. Houston, Texas – Seattle, Washington (05/18/08)
  41. Seattle, WashingtonNewark, New Jersey (08/23/08)
  42. Newark, New JerseyMontreal, Quebec (08/23/08)
  43. Montreal, QuebecNewark, New Jersey (09/11/08)
  44. Newark, New JerseySeattle, Washington (09/11/08)
  45. Seattle, WashingtonToronto, Ontario (12/27/08)
  46. Toronto, OntarioOttawa, Ontario (12/27/08)
  47. Ottawa, OntarioToronto, Ontario (01/04/09)
  48. Toronto, OntarioSeattle, Washington (01/04/09)
  49. Seattle, WashingtonAtlanta, Georgia (03/05/09)
  50. Atlanta, Georgia – Buenos Aires, Argentina (03/05/09)
  51. Buenos Aires, Argentina – El Calafate, Argentina (03/07/09)
  52. El Calafate, Argentina – Ushuaia, Argentina (03/07/09)
  53. Ushuaia, Argentina – Rio Gallegos, Argentina (03/25/09)
  54. Rio Gallegos, Argentina – Buenos Aires, Argentina (03/25/09)
  55. Buenos Aires, Argentina – Atlanta, Georgia (03/25/09)
  56. Atlanta, Georgia – Seattle, Washington (03/26/09)

rare coconut curry soap: revealed

so, i've gotten myself into some good, ol' fashioned, cold processed soap making. and i've been trying to get creative while avoiding the whole just-buy-more-and-more-essential-oils philosophy of scenting soap. sure, essential oils are an easy and very effective way to scent soap, but they often overpower my delicate palate and can be quite the pretty penny. plus, i can be more creative than just buy my way into good smelling soaps, right?

i'm pretty sure the old school way was using found herbs and so i'm working on finding my own scents. i've started looking for inspiration as i stroll the streets.

the potted rosemary outside a law office on my way to work and the fact that mint grows like a weed here in seattle makes for excellent rosemary mint castille soap. delicious and light. and no need for essential oils!

so, after i went on a chocolate factory tour of nearby theo, i decided to try making my favorite chocolate bar flavor into a soap: coconut curry. i toasted the coconut and stirred in my fabulous curry powder. after unmolding my creation i now understand why no such soap recipe exists online--it's absolutely gagarific.

after almost loosing hope, i gave one last ditch effort today and tried to hand mill it into something nice by adding vanilla... nope. and then a hint of ginger... forget it. i get sick just thinking of it. it's gross, folks. absolute failure, so don't bother trying it.

but my toasted rice and green tea might have some hope....

27 May 2009

antarctic 8: cape horn (24 mar 2009)

we arrive back to relatively calm waters after 3.5 days of hurricane winds and stormy weather. you know it's bad when the crew takes photos of the wind reader and wave swells over the bow. the tour leader is impressed by the end of his season with weather he has never seen in his 4+ years guiding. 

i was afraid and really realized how much of a worry wart i've become. i try and figure out when this came on--is it because i now have roberto? or because of nicaragua? or because adolescence can only last so long? i'm not sure, but lately i've worried about the cruise, the flight here, roberto's trips, and surely many other things.

i'm in bed now after days of playing cards and passing the time with little sleep. i'm here after emilio says something about biting my nails and swatting my hand away. for some reasons that was it. i'm just no good for getting picked on i guess. i realized that my nails were pretty much chewed off and that i was working on the surrounding skin, and that i was likely doing it worse than normal--but i can't stop. 

half of me just doesn't give a crap to stop; the other part is weak and seems to not care really. it only bothers me when others point it out, though i guess i'm sure that everyone notices. but most either don't care, or don't mention it. the only real reasons i can think of to stop are: people (others) sometimes don't like it; germs; i make myself bleed or hurt for short periods of time. 

the reasons why it doesn't really matter? it's more a vanity thing than anything else (to me); i don't mind the whole blood/pain so much; i don't seem to care or hide how it looks; my fingernails stay clean--i hate digging underneath them; all of my past attempts have fail and it doesn't really seem like it's worth the effort. 

but, alas, i was touchy about it tonight--or rather, i was over talking with emilio, ready to go to bed, and don't like being touched (read controlled) particularly unknown men. that he pointed out my flaw during a discussion on the victimization of "african cultures" seemed like a cheap shot made to make me feel bad and not something he really had to get off his chest. 

sigh. silly topic, really. perhaps it requires a little research about reasons why i may bit my nails and how i can more easily address the issue on my own terms. 

antarctic 7: cuverville island + neko bay (20 mar 2009)

this morning was true antarctic weather: high winds, snow. we only made it about an hour before turning back to the boat. we saw penguins, more penguins, but little else.

the afternoon was spent in the most beautiful passage: neko harbour. surrounded by mountains and glaciers with icebergs floating by, we visited more penguins still and also took a quick dip in the sound--freezing good but good for the soul. 

antarctic 6: fumarole bay + whaler's bay, deception island (19 mar 2009)

this morning we head to deception to hike from an abandoned station (argentina only uses it part of the year) on an active volcano (or rather an ash covered glacier next to an active caldera). this time of the year, off the mainland, there is little or no ice, at least none you can see. to be honest, i have to remind myself of where i am. 

we hiked up scree, again, to get to the outer edge of the island where a large chinstrap penguin rookery was/is slightly. hundreds of molting birds remained on the half earth/half green mossy looking material, so they pretty much looked like they were hanging out in someone's well-trimmed backyard lawn. 

i feel tired and inarticulate. i feel a bit forced to do things. i can't help but think much of it is because i'm counting the days to return home to beto. 

maybe that's how i live my life. i'm a day counter--a moment and experience counter struggling to live for the present. 

this afternoon, we head just nearly out of the cove/caldera to visit whaler's cove. and the wind kicks up to gusts of 20m/s--or 45mph. it was far to windy to consider taking the long walk previously planned to the other coast. in fact, our excursion was delayed on account of wind and it seemed that only about 1/2 or 1/3 of people even went at all. 

once there, we wandered around the half-buried old site--once the death bed of thousands of whales turned oil. it had been washed out by a mud slide after a 1969 eruption of the volcano. bones are supposedly strewn everywhere. 

why "deception"? 

well, one idea is that the entrance is quite hidden, so one circumventing the island may not find the entrance. the second is that while it may seem like a safe harbor inside, in fact the shape acts like a wind funnel, marking it exceedingly challenging to enter and leave. also, there are stories of moored boats drifting out because the ground "left" (or sank) thus removing the anchor. i can't help but think that a little whaling must have brought bad omens for all of these accounts. now i just hope that our vessel brings only good! 

tomorrow we continue further south, though i wish (part of me) that it was (sadly) the time to depart. with just two more nights left, i know that will come soon enough. i'm not looking forward to the trip home, but i guess it must be done. i'm just deciding whether to stay an additional night in ushuaia. it may not be worth the effort to change plans and make the following day such a long travel time. we would have to leave ushuaia on about a 10/11 o'clock flight, waiting in BA for several (~5) hours before flying out that evening, arriving in seattle mid-day the following day. the alternative doesn't sound so much better, really, but at least it breaks up travel times and avoid any more prolonging of goodbyes. i'll decide on the drake. for now i only have to worry about the weather tomorrow!

antarctic 5: petrel cove, dundee island + brown bluff (18 mar 2009)

we arrive at antarctica's prime--surrounded by glaciers and icebergs with the chance to disembark and hike around. we see fur seals, a lone gentoo penguin, and a couple of elephant seals. the real star, though, is the absolutely gorgeous surroundings accentuated by a wonderfully sunny day. i hope this afternoon's destination and weather is as equally impressive. seems like this time of year may not be the ideal, so i'm curious about what it's "normally" like. 

the afternoon proves just as beautiful, though he hike was not nearly as thrilling. we scrambled up scree and then snow until i looked up and watched rocks fall down the sheer face of the cliff in front of us. 

i turned back. chalk it up to my mom and beto--i'm not taking any stupid chances today. 

i returned to adelie and gentoo penguins, as well as some seals--always ready for a duo. their efforts seem to have worked as i never did make it completely to the other end of the beach. we also took out the panga to see leopard seals floating lazily on icebergs. i guess they were waiting for the gentoos to enter the water. 

seems like everything is flying by so fast, which is alright with me because, although this place is quite beautiful and the wildlife so charming, i can't wait to be back home.

the most beautiful thing about this trip so far has simply been the scenery. to be honest, i often with i never would have seen photos so that when i travel to a new place it seems that much, well... newer. i'm not sure why i always feel like the surprise is ruined and, therefore, it must not be so special. as though because other eyes may have seen it, my experience is no longer so remarkable. 

perhaps i'm just too pragmatic about the whole thing. 

as wim (another traveler) mentioned, i appear to be difficult to impress. i just witnessed one of the most beautiful and stunning days of my life in terms of scenery and didn't really make a peep or gaped mouth, or.... maybe my memories are going to offer much more pleasure than i could ever have hoped for. maybe i just take in everything in my own way. 

either way, i can say that no view of machu picchu or other human construction can compare to the breathtaking shades of whites and blues--which oddly seemed to hold the full spectrum of all other colors within--that painted today's landscapes.